Utah Desert Climbing

Red Rocks Climbing

When spring & fall temps at 9,000 on the Western Slope of Colorado become too stormy or cold for comfortable rock climbing days, venture into the red rock Utah desert with Crested Butte Mountain Guides and join us for a guided climb of one of the many desert towers that have made this area an international rock climbing destination. Experience the soft red sandstone towers and the subtle beauty of the Utah desert with its stark contrasts in color and light.

Castle Valley Desert Tower Climbs:

The Castle Valley area outside of Moab, UT along the banks of the mighty Colorado River may have the single highest concentration of five-star desert tower climbs anywhere, including the iconic Castleton Tower, Rectory, & Fisher Towers. Moab and the Castle Valley area lay roughly a 4 hr. drive west from the town of Crested Butte, and all climbing trips to the Utah Desert can be done in a weekend. Overnight camping or lodging accommodations in Moab are required and can be supplied by CBMG.

Guided Routes – We guide all of the classics including but not limited to:

  • Castleton Tower:  Kor-Ingalls (5.9 III) / North Chimney (5.9 III)
  • The Rectory:  Fine Jade (5.11 III)
  • Sister Superior:  Jah Man (5.10+ III)
  • Fisher Towers:  Ancient Art (5.9 A0 III)

Moab Area Single-Pitch Climbing:

Climbing outside of the town of Moab in the eastern section of Utah offers many incredible opportunities for the rock climber who can appreciate the subtle beauty of climbing amidst the desert landscape. This area offers up incredible climbing on varnished Wingate sandstone and is mostly moderate-to-hard cracks and some thin slabs.

The majority of the single-pitch climbing around the Moab area is an excellent mix of trad and sport lines, and offer the ability to belay from your car or with only a very short walk. This ease of access makes the Potash Road and Kane Creek Canyon crags a must-visit for any climber. The relatively low commitment level and high quality of climbs makes these areas an excellent introduction to some of the more committing desert climbs in the region.

Utah Desert Rock Climbing Camp:

Learn the basics of pure crack climbing technique on the world-famous sandstone cracks of the Utah Desert Area. Get in plenty of mileage honing crack climbing skills, while also learning the intricacies of placing protection and building anchors specific to this type of climbing. Then step-it up a bit and take your new found skills for the reminder of the week to climbing some of the areas iconic desert towers, such as Castleton Tower (III 5.9), Ancient Art (III 5.9), and many more.

Day 1:
Learn the basics of crack climbing techniques
Review/learn knots, belaying, rappelling

Day 2:
Learn and practice placing traditional protection
Learn and practice concepts of anchor building

Day 3:
Learn and practice climbing techniques in a multi-pitch climbing scenario
Multi-pitch rappelling

Day 4:
Climb a desert tower !